The hidden cost of fast fashion

The fast fashion industry produces nearly 92 million tons of waste every year, as revealed by Illuminem.

Behind the seams of one of the biggest businesses, the fashion industry hides a shocking reality that has started being exposed in the past 10 years: the environmental cost of fast fashion. But what exactly is fast fashion, and why is it so bad?

According to Vogue, “fast fashion is quickly produced trends sold at low price points. But producing and consuming clothing at the current rate we are is taking a massive toll on both the planet and the people who work to make it.” The problems caused by this vary from waste pollution to unethical labour. However, sustainable fashion has been creeping into mainstream media. Driven by social media and consumer demand, sustainable shopping is becoming the ‘trend’, pushed by younger generations – after all, it will be them who'll be living on a damaged planet.

The environmental cost of fast fashion

According to Business Insider’s research, the fashion industry emits more carbon than international flights and maritime shipping combined: this means fashion production comprises 10% of total global carbon emissions, as much as the European Union.

Curious if you are shopping with the main fast fashion producers? Walk down many of the high streets in your city and you’ll see them: the biggest players in the fast fashion market are Zara, H&M, Uniqlo, Primark, New Look and River Island. Data from Priori Data shows a newer player has taken over the fast fashion industry: Shein. It has more than 74.4 million users globally and an 18% share of the fast fashion market.

Data infographic by Megan Wells; data gathered from Fast Fashion Statistics 2025 | UniformMarket

A key issue is waste and overproduction of garments, emitting vast amounts of pollution. 30% of all clothes made globally are never sold, and therefore, retailers incinerate or landfill this new clothing to make way for new, “trendy” pieces. PIRG revealed that “in the United States, we generate enough textile waste to fill the Mall of America – the largest shopping mall in the country – every six days”. Ultimately, clothing companies are churning out more garments than the average person could ever wear.

It's not just waste that is exacerbating climate change, the industry is highly energy-intensive with production, manufacturing, transportation and retail use. The markets may rely on cheap, mass production, but at a steep environmental cost.

Rita Kant unfolded that the fashion industry requires huge amounts of natural resources: it takes roughly 500 gallons of water to produce enough fabric to cover one sofa, as stated in her book, Textile Dyeing Industry: An Environmental Hazard. The issue of water pollution is caused by the dyeing and treating of fabrics, which causes contamination.

Data infographic by Megan Wells; data gathered from Fast fashion: How clothes are linked to climate change - BBC News

Developing countries that are home to huge clothing factories, like Bangladesh, are experiencing the issues firsthand. As explained by Helen Regan, our closets may be colourful, but it’s causing their rivers to turn black. Killing fish and causing health problems, the rivers in producer countries are toxic due to poor regulations and enforcement. These poor regulations and policies create a barrier to sustainability in fashion. Kayla Owens, LJMU’s MA Fashion Innovation & Realisation leader, said: “Government policies are not going far enough. More needs to be done. As with everything, there are trends, and the sustainability/fast fashion topic is not at the forefront of policy currently.” This lack of regulation, particularly in developing countries, exacerbates the environmental impacts caused by this industry; governments and large corporations must take responsibility and enforce change.

Data infographic by Megan Wells; data gathered from Mapping the Environmental Effects of Fast Fashion

The rise of sustainable fashion

Recently, there has been a push for slow fashion, a sustainable way of shopping that encourages local or handmade production, ethical labour, and quality clothing, driven by younger generations on social media, brands campaigning for sustainability and the influence of news organisations.

Social media is immensely influential, therefore, the rise in the promotion of sustainable fashion, including thrifting and upcycling, has encouraged young people to rethink how and where they shop.

It isn’t just public figures that are pushing for change; traditional media outlets also promote sustainability. Increasing numbers of news outlets are becoming certified by BAFTA Albert, which focuses on reducing the environmental impact of the media industry. Media productions, like the BBC and Sky News, shape the public's perception by reporting on environmental issues. This is especially important in influencing older generations that may not experience social media influence. The Albert Report states, “action on climate mitigation and adaptation, from the individual to international level, can make a positive change, and there is public demand for this action. TV and film media have a critical role to play in engaging audiences in debates regarding the transition to net zero and shaping the societal story around action to prevent climate change”.

Ethical brands are gaining more attention; for instance, Pop Boutique is a vintage and retro clothing shop with 7 stores across Europe. Their consumers are often students, but they’re hoping to influence more people. Claudia, at Pop Boutique, said: “It’s a hard sell to tell people they need to get used to the idea of paying more for better quality items that they can wear for years and years…rather than an item that is fashionable and looks good initially, but bobbles instantly, threads come loose, and it isn’t going to last.” This shop, and others, are advocating wearing long-term investment pieces that are timeless and durable, and more shoppers are starting to see value in buying less but choosing better. She said: “It’s really been embraced over the past 5-10 years. We have seen such a change in our customers in that time period. We used to be a specialist sort of shop; now we are for everyone.”

Images of sustainable shops on Bold Street, Liverpool (including Grin, Pop Boutique, and Resurrection); picture credits to Megan Wells.

Fast fashion has changed the way we shop, but the environmental impact is irreversible. The rise of sustainable fashion offers hope as ethical brands try and take charge of the high streets. Attitudes are being shifted each time there's social media post about thrifting or upcycling is uploaded, and small changes in peoples’ shopping habits will collectively create a big impact for the environment in the future.

So, the next time you reach for a £5 t-shirt, ask yourself: what is the true cost?

Article by Megan Wells.